Growing Strawberries Guide- We can guide you in growing strawberries. Growing Strawberries is easy!

Growing Strawberries Guide Master Gardener- Yolanda Vanveen

As the diva of internet gardening, Yolanda Vanveen has created over two thousand gardening videos teaching people how they can garden the natural way without using chemicals for nearly twenty years. As a Master Gardener and garden host of www.ehow.com , www.gardenguides.com and www.about.com , she has saturated the gardening video internet market and is [...]

Growing Strawberries-Alpine Strawberries Propagation

Up Potting
You may need to up-pot the seedlings one or more times before transplanting into their final container or the garden.This depends on the size of container you are using for germination.
2 months after seeding, the strawberry plants are ready to transplant. I would usually move the strawberries from plug trays or cells [...]

Growing Strawberries- Caring for strawberries

Proper care for strawberry plants when growing strawberries is necessary although growing strawberries is not a much difficult task. The way to care of strawberry plants depends on the type of strawberries you want to produce, so first of all you should decide upon the same so that the strategy can be planned out.
June-bearing strawberry [...]

Growing Strawberries- Soil and Choice Tips

Remember the seeing growing strawberries when you were a child, dew-covered and hand-picked early in the morning and served with shortcake and whipped cream in the evening? Can you recapture that same flavor? Sure you can — but not with store-bought strawberries.
When growing strawberries, they cannot tolerate drought or standing water. Be sure that the [...]

Growing Strawberries in a Container

Growing strawberries in a container is a great way to keep them away from predators, and growing them in groups of at least three will help them grow into a healthy bunch. Cover the roots and leave the strawberry plant exposed when growing strawberries in a container with plant tips from a sustainable gardener in [...]

Organic Gardening

Posted by Matt Pope on December 25th, 2011

Many people have been writing asking how to start their own garden, and specifically how to create a garden (including strawberry plants) and have it thrive while minimizing or eliminating any non-organic materials. There are many reasons to motivate people to grow organic fruits and vegetables, and it is no coincidence that organic produce is getting a larger and larger share of the shelves in our supermarkets. I’ve created this post in order to share some tips and tricks, and I’ve included a very handy guide that goes into great detail on how specifically to accomplish your goals at the end.

Why should I grow organically?

Well the first and foremost reason people generally grow organically is simply that the food is more nutritious, and it tastes much better than non-organic food. There have been many studies to show the nutritional values of organic food are any where from twice to three times as high compared to non-organic produce. So when you eat this more nutritious food, not only does it taste better, it is better for you, what is not to like?

Secondly, you can save a lot of money at the dinner table by growing your own organic food. It is very obvious when you visit the supermarket that your organic produce is much more expensive than non-organic produce. By growing your own organic produce, you have the opportunity to save all of that money, while still having super nutritious and tasty food.

Growing organic food is very environmentally green, it protects local water and soil, and uses less energy. By growing organically, you are not putting any toxic chemicals into the earth. You are also keeping the soil around your home very dense in nutrients (by rotating which plants you use and composting). The energy it takes to transport that plant from your garden to your table is simply you walking to your garden and picking it, and walking back inside. When you compare this to the amount of energy it takes to transport that produce from the large growers in the mid-west to your table, it is nowhere close! There is also a little known fact that most produce that is grown organically travels twice as far as non-organic produce. When you think about it, it makes sense. Non-organic produce can be more easily grown, meaning organic farms are farther and fewer, so in order to grow bulk organic produce it is most likely traveling further. You can eliminate this by growing your own organic foods at home.

How can I get started?

There are many articles around the internet that will show you bits and pieces on how to start your own organic garden, however I have found the best way is to get a cheap guide on how to start and grow your own organic produce. My favorite is from familyorganicgarden.com. It is a 101 page guide for a very reasonable time, and takes you from the planning stage, to planting your organic garden, to finally reaping all the benefits and harvesting your foods. Check it out here and let me know what you think in the comments!

Happy Gardening!

Growing Strawberries- Basics and tips

Posted by Matt Pope on April 23rd, 2010

Strawberries are grown from the tropics all the way down to sub-polar regions, obviously they are grown with different care requirements. Common to all areas though is growing strawberries in good well-drained, friable soil that is well composted and mulched.

Growing strawberries are very popular homeowner garden projects. Strawberries are the first fruit to harvest, usually available by mid spring. The basics of growing strawberries are straight forward for the experienced gardener but for an amateur gardener, growing strawberries can be a quite tricky if you are going to have a successful strawberry crops. Growing strawberries is one of the most popular homegrown fruits for most gardeners. Growing strawberries means fresh berries, plump and red, for strawberry shortcake topped with a dollop of whipped cream. If this description makes your mouth water, just imagine the different ways you can use the strawberries you grow in your own garden.

Growing Strawberries-Cultivation:

When growing strawberries in the Southern United States, the ideal time is September through November. Young Northern producers begin to arrive at garden centers during early fall months. Some varieties can tolerate a light frost and short freeze. Only during light frosts can you expect the flowers and fruit of the strawberries to escape damage.

Growing Strawberries-Soil and planting:
Strawberries never produce deep roots, but they appreciate their soil being well-dug to a spades depth. Prepare the soil at least one month before growing strawberries. Incorporate as much organic matter as possible and include two handfuls of bonemeal per square metre (yard). A few days before planting apply, the recommended dose of fertiliser such as Growmore. Strawberries are greedy feeders over a relatively short period of time.

A recommended system when growing strawberries, is to use a 3 year rotation system. Establish 3 beds if you have the room for it. The first year the new plants in Bed 1 will be very productive and will produce runners.

Take runners from bed 1 – put into bed 2 and develop it. Put runners from 1 and 2 into bed 3. By then bed 1 will need some rest and you should leave it for a couple of years before you re-plant it. You can try changing the soil, but that takes alot of work.

Like-wise with pot growing – change the soil annually.

Growing strawberries-Fertilizing Growing Strawberries:

Mix 2 and one half pounds of 6-6-6 fertilizer for each 100 square feet of garden space. However, to be precise, always follow the advice on product labels. Too much fertilizer is never a good idea when growing strawberries.

Growing strawberries-Garden pests and destructive disease:

One problem for growing strawberries are the garden pests and diseases. There are pests that find growing strawberries hard to resist. Thrips, snails, caterpillars and slugs are known to destroy the plant. Plant diseases that you’ll likely encounter when growing strawberries are fruit rot and leaf spot.

Many gardeners now prefer natural methods of getting rid of garden pests. A simple method is the use of insecticide soap. A search online will turn up other safe and natural products for use on your growing strawberries.

Growing strawberries-Harvesting your Strawberries:

Strawberries are one of the first fruits to be harvested in the garden. You should harvest the strawberries when it’s mostly red and still firm. If you have a large crop pick the ripened strawberries daily. By doing so you’ll beat the birds and insects to the vulnerable fruit.

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Growing Strawberries- Different Systems

Posted by Matt Pope on April 23rd, 2010

Growing Strawberries- Matted Row for June Bearing Strawberries

Matted row systems work very well when growing strawberry plants that send out a lot of runners. First, set the strawberry plants 18 inches apart in rows of 24 inches, with 4 – 4 1/2 feet between the rows.

Next, leaves and flower buds will emerge shortly after planting the strawberries. When it emerges, pinch off all flowers during the first year in the garden, on June bearing strawberries, and all flowers that form until July 1st on ever-bearing and day neutral strawberries. This will encourage both plant vigor and production of runners to fill in the mat. Pinching off the first year’s flowers means there will not be any crop that year but a much better crop the next year and several more years of production.

As runners form from the strawberry plants‘ crowns, train along the row and space 6 to 9 inches apart. Press the runners gently into the soil, hold in place with a rock or cover with about 1/2 inch of soil until roots form. Never sever the runner from the mother strawberry plant.
Growing Strawberries- Hill Systems for Day Neutral and Everbearing Strawberries

Day neutral and everbearing strawberry plants do not send out many runners. Instead the strawberry plants focus their energy on producing multiple harvests. The hill system is basically a 8 inches high and 2 feet wide raised bed. Strawberry plants are set out in staggered double rows, about 12 inches apart. All runners must be removed as well as all flowers until July 1st of the first year. Plants may then be allowed to produce strawberries. Multiple harvests are exhausting on strawberry plants and both day neutral and everbearing strawberries should be replaced about every 3 years or whenever they seem to slow in vigor.

Growing Strawberries- Mulching the Strawberry Bed
Mulch between strawberry plants after planting.It is to keep the soil temperature cool, deter weeds and keep the strawberries off the soil. Straw is the traditional strawberry mulch. You should not use black plastic because it will raise the soil’s temperature and optimal strawberry production requires cool soil.

In cooler climates, mulching over the strawberry plants will prevent any injuries to the strawberry crowns. Wait until the temperature lowers to 20 degrees F. Then cover it with several inches of straw or
pine needles. You should use a mulch that can be easily removed in springtime.

Growing Strawberries- Harvesting Strawberries

Posted by Matt Pope on April 24th, 2010

One thing you must note when growing strawberries, is that they are the sweetest when they are ripened on plants. For most strawberry varieties this means leaving the strawberries on the strawberry plant for a day or two after they are fully ripe. The only way to know for sure is to taste it.

Take note that strawberries bruise easily. So be gentle when you pull them from the strawberry plants. Snap the stem directly above the strawberry rather than pulling on the strawberry itself. It is best to keep harvested strawberries in cool, shady locations.

Growing strawberries- Renovating June Bearing Strawberry Beds
Strawberry plants cannot live forever, but some renovation should keep them vigorous for 5 years. After the last harvest, mow the strawberry plants to a height of 2-3 inches, try not to damage the crowns. Feed the strawberry plants with 5 lb.. of a balanced (10-10-10) fertilizer per 100 linear feet of row. Then, till the area between the rows, mulch and all. Narrow the width of the mat rows to 18 inches by removing one side of the row and leaving the younger plants. Thin the remaining strawberry plants in the rows to 6-9 inches apart.

When yield seems to be falling off or if the strawberry plants start to decline in vigor, start with new strawberry plants in a new area.

Growing Strawberries- Varieties

Posted by Matt Pope on April 24th, 2010

The 600 strawberry varieties found today stem from five or six original wild species and are a member of the rose family. Sample different varieties at your local farmers market. You’ll be surprised how different they are in shape, color and taste. Typically, the larger the berry, the more water it contains, the smaller the berry, the greater the intensity of flavor. For the most local of treats, nothing beats the flavor of strawberries picked fresh from your garden.

Growing strawberries-Seascape: Seascape is a superior strawberry that is large, sweet, and hardy with superb flavor.

Growing strawberries-Allstar: This is a traditional late season variety with a sweet, mild flavor. They are very vigorous plants and have numerous runners that provide for a high yield of strawberries. They perform quite well in heavy soils and are quite resistant to red stele and Verticillium Wilt.

Growing strawberries-Annapolis: This mid-season strawberry producer has good flavor and large strawberries. They can have soft texture. Strawberry plants that are quite vigorous, has many runners. Quite resistant to red stele. Recommended for mid-Atlantic.

Growing strawberries-Brunswick: A mid-season strawberry producer with good flavor, but the strawberry fruit can bruise easily. Good yield and are vigorous strawberry plants. Its flavor is quite similar to Honeoye, with larger strawberries.

Growing strawberries-Cabot: It produces big, pale strawberries that can have irregular shapes. It prefers richer soil and is quite resistant to red stele but very susceptible to gray mold and virus infections. Late season strawberry producer.

Growing strawberries-Chandler: This California introduction shows some adaptablility to the southern regions of the East coast. It produces high yield and big strawberries.

Growing strawberries-Cornwallis: A Mid-Season Strawberry variety with middle sized strawberries that have both superb flavor and texture. Productive and vigorous with alot of runners. Resistant to red stele.

Growing strawberries-Cavendish: Large strawberries with pleasing flavor. These strawberries ripen unevenly, especially with heat, and these strawberry plants are not the most vigorous. Resistant to red stele and Verticillium Wilt. Mid-Season strawberries.

Growing strawberries-Darselect: This mid-season strawberry producer with elongated, conical strawberries that have excellent taste, but can be quite soft in texture. They are very vulnerable to foliar diseases.
Growing strawberries-Delmarvel: Nice flavor and texture and superior disease resistance. An excellent mid-season choice for mid-Altantic and south. Not particularly cold hardy.

Growing strawberries-Earliglow: Early Season strawberries. They are firm with nice color and flavor, but size will reduce later in the season. Lots of runners. Quite Resistant to red stele and Verticillium Wilt.

Growing strawberries-Honeoye: This is a popular mid-season strawberry variety because of its high yields and large, sturdy, strawberries. The flavor can be tart and it never does well in heavy soils. No resistance to either red stele disease or Verticillium.

Growing strawberries-Jewel A popular late season strawberry variety. Strawberries are firm with good flavor. Moderate amount of yields, and are vulnerable to red stele. They perform best in warm climates. Very suitable for heavy soils. Freezes well.

Growing strawberries-Kent: These strawberries have excellent flavor and yields, but these strawberry plants decline very quickly, and last only a couple of years. Not a recommended choice for warm climates, since hot weather can cause the skin to toughen. No resistance to red stele or verticillium and susceptible to foliar diseases. Mid-season strawberry variety.

Growing strawberries-L’Amour: Introduced in 2004, L’Amour has superior flavor and texture, but no resistance to red stele or Verticillium. Mid-season strawberry variety.

Growing strawberries-Lateglow: Strawberry fruits have good flavor and a firm textures. Strawberry plants are quite vigorous and thrive in warmer climates. It has good resistance to red stele and Verticillium. Late season strawberry variety.

Growing strawberries-Mesabi: Strawberries that are developed in Minnesota, Mesabi has an excellent cold tolerance. It is a high yielder with good flavor, but the strawberries do not store well. Resistant to red stele and somewhat resistant to leaf spot and powdery mildew.

Growing strawberries-Mic Mac: Good strawberry producers with firm, nice tasting strawberries. Vigorous strawberry plants and alot of runners, but have no resistance to red stele or Verticillium. Late season strawberry variety.

Growing strawberries-Mohawk: Strawberries ripen very early. Nice flavor. Strawberry yields are better in warm climates. Vigorous strawberry plants with very good runner production. Good resistance to red stele and Verticillium Wilt.
Growing strawberries-Northeaster: A superb early season performer, especially for Northeast gardens, but the strong strawberry flavor is not too popular. Superb for heavy soils and it shows some resistance to red stele and Verticillium.

Growing strawberries-Sable: Earlier than Earliglow strawberries and is as good in flavor. It has a soft texture and should be picked just prior to eating. Vulnerable to early frosts. Shows some resistance to red stele.

Growing strawberries-Seneca: A mildly vigorous late season strawberry variety, Seneca is most often grown in the northeast. Flavor is moderately good. No resistance to red stele or Verticillium.

Growing strawberries-Sparkle: Great flavor, but texture can be quite soft and the size of the strawberry fruit reduces toward end of season. Vigorous strawberry plants with many runners and some resistance to red stele. Late season.

Growing strawberries-Sweet Charlie: Popular Florida strawberry variety with moderate resistance to anthracnose fruit rot. Bred for a high sugar content and very sweet strawberries.

Growing strawberries-Veestar: A Canadian strawberry variety that is superbly productive and vigorous, with excellent flavor and high yield, but has no resistance to either red stele or Verticillium Wilt. Early season strawberry variety.

Growing strawberries-Winona: Another Minnesota introduction that shows superb tolerance for cold. These strawberries are very large and remain firm. Strawberry plants are moderately vigorous with resistance to red stele root rot and most foliar diseases.

Does anybody know Chili's Frozen Strawberry Margarita receipe? I have looked all over google/Copy Cat recipes?

Posted by Matt Pope on April 16th, 2011

I have looked everywhere!!! Surely someone knows someone who is a bartender there!!! HELP!

Recipe for strawberry smoothie?

Posted by Matt Pope on April 15th, 2011

does anyone have one?

what is the best strawberry banana smoothie recipe out there?

Posted by Matt Pope on April 14th, 2011

thanks =]
also, do you have to chop the strawberries in little pieces (same for bananas) or let a blender do the work?

Where can I find Frullati's strawberry banana smoothie recipe?

Posted by Matt Pope on April 13th, 2011

They have my favorite, and I would like to be able to make it very similar to theirs. Most similar one gets 10 points :]

Need a recipe for chocolate cake with a strawberry filling.?

Posted by Matt Pope on April 12th, 2011

My friend wants a cake made for her birthday. It is a chocolate cake on bottom and top, but when you cut into it the center is like strawberries. Not a yogurt or pudding filling, but actual strawberries. Anyone know a recipe for it? Or know of a website with the recipe and maybe a picture? Thanks.

Where can i get the recipe for strawberry cream cheese cake?

Posted by Matt Pope on April 11th, 2011

i don’t really know if this is what its called but i had it at a graduation party, I know it is cake with cream cheese frosting and it contains tofu. To add a bit of fruit they top it with strawberries.

Thanks